""""Well the interesting part of the trip happens here"""
After showing our permits at various checkposts, we reached LaChen
about 6 hours since we started that morning. We had booked our home stay @ RC
homestays. After dropping our bags we headed out for a late lunch of piping hot
pakodas, chilly paneer, washed down with tea. La Chen is a small town which is
surrounded by snow capped mountains on all sides. It is extremely cold though
the locals say the chillness is going down every year. For a couple from the
coastal plains from the southern part of the country, this was very cold. We
clicked some snaps, walked down the road and headed back to our cute little
home stay. After a shower and piping hot dinner with owners, we retired for the
day. For the first time I was wrapped in 3 layers of clothing and socks with a
comforter and blanket. Can’t even toss and turn as the warmth might disappear.
Struggled quite a bit to sleep but the experience was one to be cherished.
We left after a brief 20 minute stay – some
times the altitude sickness starts playing games inside your head. Though I had
some camphor and an oxygen mask, I still did not want to take a chance.
Sometimes the good things in life stay only for a few minutes but will be
forever etched in your memory – this was one such moment (philosophical punch
line). We bade goodbye to the lake and started our journey back.
Day 6 – Mar 6 – Gangtok to LaChen
The
plan for the next few days was to head to Gurudongmar for which we had to go to
La Chen, stay there for the night and depart early morning the next day. LaChen is 125 kms from Gangtok and the drive is very scenic. We departed post
breakfast and the scenery started unfolding right after we got to the outskirts
of Gangtok, first the snow capped peaks, followed by waterfalls – we crossed
the seven sisters waterfalls, the innumerable army bridges, and with the topography of
hills on one side and a turquoise blue river flowing below on the other, all these are
straight out of a fairy tale for sure.
Route taken – Gangtok – Phodong - Mangan
(district headquarters for N.Sikkim) - Chungthang - Lachen
Roads are motorable but please be cautious while negotiating bends –
horns are sparsely used while dippers are highly respected. At many stretches
road work was in progress. The sight before Chungthang is beautiful and a bit
scary. There is a huge dam right below and the road cuts and curves with some
narrow passes. As the traffic density was low, we didn’t face any challenges maneuvering
this stretch. The green waters of the dam below is a sight to behold, at one
point you are almost at the water level before ascending upwards. Chungthang is
also where the roads splits to LaChen (higher pass) and LaChung (lower pass),
so kindly take the correct road, wherever you are heading.
Day
7 – Mar 7: La Chen to Gurdongmar
Departed at 5 A.M from La Chen to join a
small convoy that was heading towards Thangu and Gurudongmar. This is important
because the weather in these parts are unpredictable and coming back from
Gurudongmar can be quite a challenge. Leaving very early is also not a wise
option as we were advised to follow convoy of other vehicles. Even the authorities recommend a 5 A.M start from La Chen. The view
starts unfolding at every bend, first the black rocks, then the ice, the frozen
river and the majestic snow covered peaks.
As the first rays of the sun appear the
peaks turn golden in colour. The small puddles which are covered in ice
overnight slowly start melting, you can feel the nip in the air and the ascend
starts getting tough little by little. We pass thru the numerable army
dwellings wondering how these men have to battle against nature before taking
on the enemies. We pass by rows of army vehicles with ice chains on them.
Suddenly I find myself in the midst of ‘trax’es who are also ascending the
mountains. Keeping pace with them was challenging and exciting.
We reached Thangu, a very small village
where we had breakfast – a few slices of bread, a bowl of instant noodles and
tea. We encountered some tourists here – those who were in the trax. Some
wondered where we came from – as ours is a TN registered Thar. Some didn’t
believe when we told them and some were just plain excited to look at the
vehicle and the crazy couple.
Except for the small narrow stretch of land
– called a road but infact is a only gravel – it was white everywhere. The
black Thar was in complete contrast to the white surroundings everywhere – a
perfect black and white romance.
The final checkpost was at an elevation of
15,000+ feet. Had to get down to show the permit. I felt a tinge of dizziness
at this point – my first experience of altitude sickness. Every step was with
utmost caution – should not slip on the ice and shouldn’t run out of breath.
Every thing had to be done slowly. Left the place and entered the final 14 kms
of actual road – finally some tar for the thar. Surprisingly the terrain became
flat from this point. I now started understanding the meaning of icy desert.
The land was bone dry – brown and white mountains as the backdrop. There was
some ice on the roads – please be careful as it can slippery. I had engaged 4
wheel drive from Thangu to provide additional traction to the wheels so felt
slightly more comfortable.
The final ascent to the lake was a tad
steep and when I had to put that extra effort to change the gear, I felt a
stinging sensation in my nerves which shook me for a second, again all part of
the experience. What unfolds in front of your eyes is nothing but surreal – a
frozen lake in the middle of nowhere.
Cannot compare this to anything I have ever felt in my lifetime. It
leaves you speechless and emotionless for a few minutes before you realize the
thin air around. You just take in the sight and marvel at such wonderful
creations. This lake is considered holy by the Buddhists and Sikhs alike. When
you hear that people traveled here by foot you cannot but help admire the
courage of those brave souls who came here centuries ago. Will let you take in
some sights now.
It was 9:45 by now and the ice had started
melting. After a quick coffee – free at the army check post - and bio-break, we
headed back to La Chen. The gravel roads started getting slushy and frozen
sticks started emerging from the tips of the rocks. By now, there was no fear
of the path, only respect. We reached La Chen in time for lunch. It took 4 ½
hrs to cover 64 kms – one way!!!
We bid goodbye to our kind hosts and
contemplated our visit to La Chung and Yumthang for which we had permits but
apparently dropped out of at the last minute – a mistake that I’d regret later.
After a 6 ½ hrs drive to Gangtok – post 6 it was dark, the terrain was unknown
and the speed not exceeding 30 kmph we made it to the luxurious comfort of our
resort. A lot of army bridges actually scared me though I did not show it. The
entire journey was like a fairy tale.
Day 8 – Mar 8 – Gangtok
Today was a no-driving day for me. One of
those rare days where you don’t do anything. Get up late, have a brunch, admire
the mountains, watch the pics and videos of the previous days, pinch yourself
hard whether you actually experienced it in real, explore the local area by
foot, keep looking at the mountains and snow peaks around you with a piping hot
cup of coffee or tea and just do absolutely nothing. Life is a lot more
peaceful and relaxed this way
Day 9 – Mar 9 - Shopping in Gangtok
By now, we were familiar with the place, we
knew where the vehicle could be parked, what we had to buy, where to eat etc –
traveling truly enlightens you. Back to M.G. Marg again and shopped till we
dropped. Atleast one good common habit that both Radhika and I have are to shop
for things which have a local flavor – i.e.., something you won’t find anywhere
except in that place. And we did find a lot of options. By now, we had already
filled one large bag and atleast 2 smaller bags with souvenirs, gifts, prayer
flags, tea, woolens, wine. Enough for now.
Day 10 – Mar 10 - Dep from Gangtok
One
more early morning start. Post settling the bills, we headed out of Gangtok.
Being a Saturday early morning, there was very little traffic. We planned to
reach Kolkata that night – but as always could not go as planned. Reached
Baghdogra around 9:30 AM. Stopped for brunch near Purnea around 12 noon, crossed
Baagalpur at 2 PM, entered Jharkand around 5 PM and exited from Chittaranjan around 8
P.M. We stopped on the outskirts of Asansol as I was tired and didn’t want to
push too hard to reach Kolkata the same night. When on the road, safety always
becomes first priority and we never compromise on it. We booked into a hotel in
Durgapur and halted there for the night.
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