Friday 28 February 2014

The dense forests of the Anamalai Ranges - Valparai



Yet another pre planned road trip. Have been wanting to do this trip for long by car though we have done once in the past by other modes. So was pretty much excited about the road trip and as usual I started planning things well in advance. Got to know from a friend about a homestay and got ourselves booked there. There was confusion initially regarding the mixed reviews about the place where we were deciding to stay. 

Day 0: Started from Chennai (Adyar) around 5:00 AM and took the Vellor – Krishnagiri – Dharmapuri – Salem – Kangeyam – Pollachi – Valparai route instead of the usual NH45. (For some reason my husband hates to go on NH 45 may be because he travels to work almost till Chengalpet on a daily basis). So we decided to take our much liked route though it is a few kms more.

 Enroute Valparai
 View of Azhiyar dam from the hills
 View of criss cross roads amidst the dense jungle
 Monkey menace

 Lion tail macaque on the roads


Reached Valparai around 3 ish. We had lunch at Hotel Gowri Shankar, Pollachi. And started our drive towards Valparai. We called the owner of the home stay and he clearly guided us on the route and got ourselves introduced and decided to give a short break before we proceeded for our evening walk. This evening walk was suggested by the owner who also happens to be a naturalist. He was kind enough to accompany us inside the tea gardens which also happens to be the territory of many wild animals. So we went for a nice long walk in the tea gardens and it was one of its kinds as it is not allowed for normal tourists. It was quite an adventurous experience considering that wild animals are there on the prowl. It was a good experience walking and it started getting dark.
Since it was a full moon night we had a beautiful sight that day amidst the mountains. We saw a small light from a distance and suddenly we realized that it was the moon rising. That sight is something that cannot be explained in words. It was absolutely breathtaking. Unfortunately since it was very dark we couldn’t get the camera settings right to capture the same.
The path to walk was a very small single line where you literally have to go one behind another. A little slip would take you down the tea gardens in a jiff. The best was the return walk where except for the lights at some distance we couldn’t see anything. If we had gone alone we couldn’t have got back to the homestay at all. Thankfully since the owner accompanied us he was thorough with the path and we were just trailing him. That was a very simple evening and yet a different one.

 Moon rise amidst the hills
 Captured around 9 in the night. View in the moon light


Day 1: We didn’t make much plans, wanted to go for some bird sightings, however we missed it. Went for a nice long drive along the Sholayar route and the scenery was just breathtaking everywhere. We went for a nice long drive and then headed to a small mess for breakfast. My husband had been long time talking about this place called Chinnakallar. This place apparently is supposed to receiving the highest rainfall in Tamil Nadu. It requires ticket to visit this place. Though my husband has been telling a lot about this place, I was very skeptical because of the leech factor all over again. I have mentioned enough and more about these tiny slimy creatures in my previous blog. But I thought I would take the courage and visit this place as I have heard that its nature at its best.

 Early morning view from the home stay

The other concerning thing was about the elephant menace happening all over the town. We started post breakfast towards Chinnakalar and had to stop at a place to take our tickets from a forest officer. Apparently he told us about a tea factory that got in to shambles that night because of a herd of about 13 raging elephants near that area and we were told that those elephants have gone down on the same path that we were heading to and we were asked to be very careful. Though I was very scared about the whole thing, we still decided to move forward. Since it was a Monday there were not many tourists and hardly one or 2 cars we saw in that route.
We paid for the tickets and started our slow drive towards the Upper Nirar Dam first and then towards Chinnakallar. It was very calm and beautiful drive amidst the forest and we couldn’t speed either ways because of the poor road condition. We reached upper Nirar and we were the only ones there and the forest guard apparently told us about many more wild animal encounters. It all was sounding adventurous from a tourist perspective, however for the kind of facilities these guards get for living in a surrounding where there is no guarantee for life, I felt very miserable. I truly respect such people who work because they have to make those few pennies to survive. It was a matter of life and death for them. I admired that guy for the courage and for tough ordeals they go through.

Road towards Nirar dam

 View of the dam


It was good chatting with him. He showed us a little beyond the dam. He also warned us to drive carefully considering those elephant attacks. We bid him goodbye and drove towards Chinnakallar. It was a very different experience as there were hardly any humans anywhere lest we can expect any, because it was inside the forest. The drive was fun, though my husband noticed that I was very scared. I was not comfortable about that lone drive inside forests. End of the day we would be nothing in front of elephant’s power. I just wanted to reach my destination as quick as possible and move back to my homestay. 

After reaching Chinnakallar there was a guide who was awaiting us, we gave him the tickets and he escorted us inside. My fear was that of the Leech and immediately I questioned him about the Leech before I took a step forward. Thankfully that day it was not raining and hence the surface was not wet. He just warned me not to venture in to the marshy area and just walk on the designated path. I did what he said. As we walked I was astonished with the beauty that was surrounding us. We couldn’t talk. We were just silent amidst nature, the sound of the trees, birds chirping around,  the sound of water at a distance, fresh air around, the aroma of trees and bushes around, the green colour dominating all over and the thick dense forests around. {Some pics below of the dense forests as seen from Chinnakallar)





We had a good time enjoying the beauty around, and hearing similar survival stories from the forest guard out there. I was wondering what kind of protection the government provides for such people. They do not have guarantee for their life. Neither do they have proper facilities for staying. I was shocked to hear when I asked him about what he does when animals come around and all he had to say was run and hide for his life.
After seeing such people, after seeing the kind of life they lead I only feel one thing, that I have been blessed with abundance.  I feel blessed for everything this life has given me and I thank life for the same. I cannot do anything to help them but all I can do is I can pray they live a safe life.
After a very nice and memorable morning we were returning towards the town. I was very anxious till we reached the main area. Once we arrived we headed to a hotel for a nice lunch. There are not many great places around to eat in Valparai, but lot of eateries to make sure you don’t stay hungry.
After a simple meal we went back to the room to rest a while. In the mean time the owner of the place informed us of elephant menace in a place called Nallamudi Poonjolai. He said if we were interested we could drive over to that place as he knew people out there and we can get a good view of watching elephants in their own terrain. We were pretty excited about the idea and around five ish in the evening, we drove towards that place. Our friend spoke to the forest guard there and the elephant caretaker and he was told that the elephants are roaming around in that area.
We reached the spot and were exhilarated beyond words. Seeing animals in their own habitat is something I always keep dreaming about. There are quite a few of them with two small elephants as well.
It started to drizzle and the whole place looked beautiful. The caretaker mentioned to us that if not for the rains he would have taken us much closer to the elephants. That day we learnt more about this sublime animal and its characteristics. Nature is so beautiful and so are its creations. I always used to admire elephants for their majestic looks but that day on started appreciated the gift of nature, the gift of god. Most beautiful experience we had that evening. Post which we drove to a small tea shop on the end of the road and had a hot cup of lemon tea and started our drive back to the room. If not for our friend there we could have never experience such beauty.

The alluring Nallamudi Poonjolai



We headed back and the drive was pretty challenging being in the hills, the rains and it was already dark. On our way back we heard some daunting stories of animal encounters and spent the rest of the evening hearing more and more stories before we hit the bed just before mid night.

Day 2: Next day started our journey back home with loads of memories of the trip with each trip different from the other.

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